Overview
Ama Dablam, also known as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas,” is a majestic mountain that rises to 6,812 meters (22,349 feet) in the Khumbu region, south of Mount Everest. Its distinctive pyramid-shaped top and hanging glacier on the southwest ridge mimic the ornate box known as Dablam, which is holy to the Sherpa people and inspired the mountain’s name. Mike Gill (New Zealand), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (New Zealand) first climbed Ama Dablam via the Southwest Ridge in 1961. The route offers a continuous and varied climb of increasing difficulty, with three high camps at critical places. The climb to Camp I is short, followed by a hard traverse across a narrow granite ridge to Camp II. Steep ice pitches and snow slopes make the path to Camp III considerably more difficult, requiring a snow arete and bergschrund between ice cliffs. After reaching and leveling the summit, the team returns to base camp. The optimal time to embark on the Ama Dablam Expedition is between April and May, just before the monsoon season, or September and October. If you are an experienced climber wishing to join an adventure team to face one of the world’s most magnificent mountains, the Ama Dablam Expedition is a great option.
Top Highlights of Ama Dablam
- Iconic peak with breathtaking views
- Challenging and rewarding climb
- Stunning high-altitude scenery
- Experience Himalayan mountaineering
- Adventure through rugged terrain
Itinerary
You will arrive in Kathmandu valley at the Tribhuvan International Airport, and our agents from Gravity Expedition will be there to pick you up. They will take you to your hotel, where you can rest and enjoy a delicious and traditional Nepali meal. In the evening, you have the option to attend a fascinating folk cultural performance.
Following breakfast the following morning, you will go for a full-day sightseeing trip of the Kathmandu Valley. You may see Swyambhunath, a very old temple that is essentially classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the revered Pashupatinath Temple.
Highlights of our guided trip include the largest Buddhist stupa at Boudhanath and the exquisite artwork and old architecture of Kathmandu Durbar Square, which showcase the ancient culture of Nepal.
Patan City’s historic architecture and renowned fine arts will charm you on a visit. You will have time to explore the neighborhood, eat supper, and maybe take a leisurely stroll down the well-known streets when you get back to your hotel. A traditional Nepalese dinner at the Nepali Cultural Restaurant rounds off the day.
We spend the day drafting final documentation, inspecting gear and equipment, and so forth. If you forget something before heading for the mountain, you can go shopping one last time.
4-5 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.
5-6 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.
Short hike to Everest View Hotel & explore Namche.
5-6 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.
4-5 hrs trek. Overnight Camping.
The journey from Ama Dabalm Base Camp to Camp 1 is easy, with only a 100-meter portion of mild rock scrambling. The slope is 60º. Along the way, you’ll scramble over enormous boulders and climb an easy fourth-class slab without a fixed rope. You’ll immediately discover that there aren’t many tenting spots on Ama Dablam’s Southwest ridge. As a result, climbers must coordinate their efforts and share resources. There is roughly space for 6-7 two-man tents and 6-7 single tents.
The ascent from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most challenging segment of the trek. You start the day by scrambling and ascending a simple fourth-class horizontal rock ridge over many pinnacles and gendarmes, gaining only 300 meters/1000 feet in elevation. The exposure is enormous, with big drop-offs on either side of the ridge. The climbing is really pleasurable on high-quality granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge, you will climb the Yellow Tower for 6 meters, which is rated French 4th class, British Severe, and North American YDS 5.5. Camp 2 is accessible by narrow ledges above the Yellow Tower. This will feel like a massive mountain high camp with high exposure on all sides. Take care when you go to the washroom.
The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is across mixed, ice, and snow terrain. This segment also has fixed ropes running the entire length. You will have spectacular views of Ama Dablam base camp, Kusum Kanguru, and Kantega. It is now time to cross the famed Mushroom Ridge, which stands at 6150 meters/20,300 ft. Looking up at Camp 3 (6300 meters/20,800 ft) with Mount Dablam in the background. Some strong climbers attempt to reach the summit from Camp 2. However, Wongchhu Peak Promotion would always set up camp three before the peak. With being said, it is crucial to note that this portion of the mountain is highly susceptible to avalanches. As a result, it is critical to reduce or completely avoid spending time at this camp. When customers are not feeling strong enough to push from camp 2, we normally spend 6 hours here before beginning the summit push. The majority of the route from the yellow tower to camp three is sloping at nearly 55º.
Most climbers spend roughly ten hours summiting from camp three and returning to camp two. The summit day on Ama Dablam is remarkable. Climb two easy pitches of solid snow-ice (40º+) to reach the Dablam side. Next to the Dablam, there is a fluted snow/ice field (30-50º) leading to one of the world’s best peaks. Here, you’ll be rewarded with the greatest seat in the house to see the Khumbu, the epicenter of high altitude climbing. Stunning panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma, and Makalu become visible.
4-5 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.
4-5 hrs tre.. Overnight in Lodge.
5-6 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.
After breakfast, we head to the airport for our flights. The terminal building is exceedingly cold, with limited refreshments and snacks. The flight is amazing once you’ve lifted off and are rushing down into the emptiness. After missing the hillside below Number Peak and avoiding the Lamjura Pass, the plane heads to Kathmandu. Then you will be met by Gravity Expedition representatives at the domestic airport. Overnight in a hotel.
Leisure day in Kathmandu, followed by a farewell meal and celebration. You can ask your guide to take you on a sightseeing tour of Kathmandu Valley. On this day, you can visit the valley’s numerous museums, including the Narayanhiti Museum, which was previously the residence of Nepal’s last king. You can also visit the hilltop of Nagarkot. After exploring the valley’s world heritage sites, you will enjoy a farewell supper with your Nepali friends and guide. You and your guide may even decide to extend your stay to include a Chitwan jungle safari, rafting activities, and other activities.
Our representative of Gravity Expedition will accompany you to Tribhuvan International Airport as you prepare to board your flight back home. While you travel home, you can start thinking about your next adventure here in Nepal, and rest assured that Gravity Expedition will be there to provide excellent service for your future endeavors.

Map
Cost Includes
- Airport/Hotel transfer in Kathmandu,
- All ground transportation as per the itinerary by private vehicle in Kathmandu,
- Hotel in Kathmandu for 3 nights pre and 2 nights post on B/B plan on sharing post,
- Full-day Kathmandu Heritage site sightseeing by private tourist vehicle,
- Professional English-speaking tour guide during sightseeing,
- City tour entrance fees of the heritage sites,
- Experienced and government-licensed high-altitude trekking and climbing guide during the trekking and climbing period,
- All trekking and mountaineering equipment like; Kitchen tents, store tents, dining tents, toilet tents, tables chairs, and cooking utensils for advanced Base Camp and high camp,
- Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bars, etc.)
- Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base camp,
- Food and accommodation during the trek in full board,
- Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner will be served at base camp,
- All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during the expedition for both members and crews,
- Daily weather Report service from Seattle based,
- Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Ama Dablam,
- Nepal government Royalty and fees,
- One experienced, trained, government-licensed, climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client,
- All wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurance for all involved staff in trekking and expedition,
- Group emergency equipment and medical supplies,
- Medical consultation services at the base camp,
- Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas, cooks, Kitchen boys,
- Equipment allowance and wages for Government Liaison Officers,
- Solar equipment for light and also for charging various electric devices,
- 1 generator at base camp for computers and other electronic devices,
- Headset radios for communication in the mountain,
- Satellite Phones (for personal use on the participants’ charge),
- Internet at base camp (for personal use on the participants’ charge),
- Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required,
- Rope fixing costs,
- The heater will be provided at the base camp for heating the dining room,
- Emergency Oxygen, mask, and regulator will be provided,
- Travel and rescue arrangements,
- Ice fall usage Charge,
- 5 bottles of 3LTR Poisk Oxygen for members,
- Welcome and Farewell dinner with beverages.
Cost Excludes
- Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from the mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary,
- If required to change from airplane to helicopter to/from Lukla due to weather issues, the additional cost of the helicopter will be shared amongst clients,
- Personal trekking and climbing gear,
- Meals in Kathmandu (except breakfast and farewell dinner),
- Alcohol and Beverages during the trek and climbing,
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, shower, etc.),
- Emergency Medical Evacuation & any medical costs,
- Any other item not listed in the 'Cost Includes' section.
FAQs
Its distinctive pyramid shape and sharp ridges resemble the Matterhorn in the Alps, giving it a similarly iconic appearance.
The standard route is the Southwest Ridge, which involves a mix of technical rock and ice climbing.
Key sections include steep ice and rock sections, such as the “Yellow Tower” and the “Hanging Glacier.”
Base Camp is equipped with tents, dining areas, and basic amenities. It serves as the starting point for acclimatization and climbing.
The optimal times are pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn), generally from late April to early June and September to November.
Meals typically include a mix of Nepali and international cuisine. Expect hearty dishes like rice, lentils, and vegetables.
Equipments
1.0 Travel Documents
- Valid passport
- Credit/Debit card
- Passport size photo (6 pieces)
- Insurance paper and contact address
- Family contact number
2.0 Upper Body Wear
- Expedition down jacket
- Basecamp down jacket
- Lightweight fleece top
- Wind shirt
- Gore-Tex jacket
- Waterproof shell jacket
- Base layers tops
- Trekking cloths
- Casual wear
3.0 Lower Body Wear
- Thermal bottom base layer (2-3 pcs)
- Fleece trousers (2-3 pcs)
- Gore-Tex pants (1 pcs)
- Mid-weight pants (1-2 pcs)
- Lightweight quick dry trekking pants (2-3 pcs)
- Gaiters for trekking boots
- Down pant Underwear (4-6 pcs)
4.0 Headwear
- Sun cap
- Desert cap
- Balaclava
- Banadana or Buff
- Fleece hat
- Neoprene face mask
- Neck gaiter
- Sunglass
- Ski goggles
5.0 Handwear
- Thin fleece gloves (2 pairs)
- Liner gloves (2 pairs)
- Wind stopper/screen tap gloves (2 pairs)
- Mountaineering gloves with removable liners
- Summit gloves-6000m
6.0 Footwear
- Socks (6 pairs)
- Lightweight shoes/sandals
- Trekking boots
- 6000m mountaineering boots
- Save gaiters
- Down bivvy boots
- Camp boots
- Foot-wearing system
7.0 Sleeping Bags
- Sleeping bag -20°c to -30°c for Base camp
- Down Sleeping Bag -40°c for extreme comfort
- Thermarests Mattress (Cell foam)
- Down Matteres (Inflatable)
- Sleeping bag Liner
- Inflatable Pillow
8.0 Climbing Equipment
- Power Bank
- Pee Bottle
- Altimeter watch
- Pocket Knife
- Walking Stick/Trekking Pole
- Satellite Phone with credit
- Battery
- Headlight 500-700Lumens
- Spare Snow Goggles
- Tape Slings/240cm
- Unlock Carabiner (2pcs)
- Lock Carabiner (3pcs)
- Climbing Helmet
- Summit Down Suit – 6000m
- Jumar / Ascender
- Belay Devices / Figure of 8/ATC guide
- Harness
- Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector
- Crampons (fit with boot)/ Packing cover
9.0 Bag packs
- Rucksacks 35 L -50 L
- Duffle Bag 120 L – 150 L (2pcs)
- Laundry / Garbage Bag (Large)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks / Dry Bag –small/medium / Large (3-4)pcs)
10.0 Sun stuff
- Banana Boat/Nivea Sun Cream (up to -50SPF)
- Lip Guard – 30 to -50 (SPF)
- Sun Glasses (Uv Protection)
- Glaciers Glasses (Uv Protection)
- Moisturizer / Lotion
11.0 Toiletries (Personal)
- Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue
- Toothpaste
- Toothbrush
- Soap
- Shampoo
- Towel
- Garbage Bag
12.0 Eating & Drinkings
- 1 ltr. Water Bottle 1/1.5ltr.
- Thermos Mug (Opt.)
- Spoon / Fork (opt.)
- Bowl (opt.)
13.0 Medical / First Aid
- Brufen / Ibuprofens
- Antibiotic
- Diamox
- Paracetamol
- Handy Plaster
- Crack Bandage
- Tincture Iodine
- Ondem
- Cetirizine
- Electrolyte
- Minil 10mg (Palpitation, anxiety)
- Codopar (Headache & chest pain)
- Salbetol 4mg (Breathless)
- Azithromycin 500mg (chronic tonsillitis, fever, nose, throat infection-must take 5 days)
- Flupen 250mg (prevent wound infection)
- Allegra 120/180mg (Allergic tonsil)
- Menstrual Products
14.0 Miscellaneous
- Nail cutter
- Umbrella /Raincoat
- Hot water bag
- Tenacious Tape Repair Kits
- Camera
- GPS Tracker (Recommended)
- Hand & Toe Warmer
Write a Review
You must be logged in to post a comment.