Overview
Mt. Makalu, Nepal’s fourth highest peak and the world’s fifth highest summit, stands at 8,463 meters (27,758 feet). Mount Makalu, located on the Nepal-China border in the eastern Himalayan range, is only 19 kilometers southeast of the massive Mt. Everest. The mountain’s height alone is impressive, but its immaculate pyramid shape with four straight ridges adds to its beauty and grandeur. The mountain’s name comes from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which means “big black” and is the name of one of Hinduism’s most powerful gods, Shiva. In the local dialect, the peak is known as Kumba Karna, which translates to “giant.” Makalu has proven to be a challenging climb, with only five of his initial 16 tries successful. The first expedition headed by a French team to summit Mt. Makalu took place in 1955. Makalu base camp is home to a natural wonder: the Barun Valley. With stunning high waterfalls thundering amid the deep canyons, this valley supports a diverse range of vegetation and wildlife. You can also observe the diverse customs of ethnic groups like Sherpa and Kirat. The base camp is typically located at roughly 5,600 metres, followed by four camps before ascending to the summit. The first camp is 6,100 m, the second is 6,600 m, the third is 7,200 m, and the final is 7,600 m. Mt. Makalu Expedition has numerous challenges and perils. As a result, Wongchhu Peak Promotion has put together an experienced team to assist all expedition members in climbing Mount Makalu.
Top Highlights of Makalu Expedition
- Summit the world’s fifth-highest peak
- Challenging high-altitude climbs
- Breathtaking Himalayan panoramas
- Remote and rugged terrain
- Rich Sherpa cultural experiences
Itinerary
You will arrive in Kathmandu valley at the Tribhuvan International Airport, and our agents from Gravity Expedition will be there to pick you up. They will take you to your hotel, where you can rest and enjoy a delicious and traditional Nepali meal. In the evening, you have the option to attend a fascinating folk cultural performance.
Following breakfast the following morning, you will go for a full-day sightseeing trip of the Kathmandu Valley. You may see Swyambhunath, a very old temple that is essentially classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the revered Pashupatinath Temple.
Highlights of our guided trip include the largest Buddhist stupa at Boudhanath and the exquisite artwork and old architecture of Kathmandu Durbar Square, which showcase the ancient culture of Nepal.
Patan City’s historic architecture and renowned fine arts will charm you on a visit. You will have time to explore the neighborhood, eat supper, and maybe take a leisurely stroll down the well-known streets when you get back to your hotel. A traditional Nepalese dinner at the Nepali Cultural Restaurant rounds off the day.
We spend a day preparing the final documentation, inspecting gear and equipment, and so forth. If you forget something before heading for the mountain, you can go shopping one last time.
After breakfast, depending on your flight time, you will be transported to Kathmandu’s domestic terminal for a 35-minute flight to Tumlingtar. Driving from Tumlingtar Airport to Num via Khandbari will take four hours. It’s an uncomfortable drive because it’s off-road, rocky, muddy, and uneven. Overnight in the Tea House.
The walk begins with a two-hour descent to the Arun River, followed by a steep rise to Seduwa through a bamboo forest and a few small teahouses. Overnight in Tent.
Continue along the Arun valley via fields of small hamlets, bamboo and rhododendron forests, and rhododendron forests until you reach the Sherpa settlement of Tashigaon (2.180 m), the valley’s highest permanent habitation. Overnight in Tent.
After leaving Tashigaon, you ascend through a dense forest and rhododendron trees in full bloom to the small mountain pasture of Kauma La (3562 m), located at the base of the high passes that lead to the Barun valley. Overnight in Tent.
Today, as part of the acclimatization process, you climb to 3,900-meter-high Khongma-La. After breakfast at the hotel, start climbing the stone steps through the rhododendron forest to reach Khongma-La. Spend about 15 to 20 minutes there before returning to the resort for a catered lunch. You have the entire afternoon free to relax or explore. Overnight in Tent.
As you emerge from the steep forest, you find yourself in the high alpine environment, surrounded by bushes and pasture. Makalu’s massive mountain bulk is set against a gorgeous backdrop of many walls ornamented with prayer stones and flags, as well as icy, deep blue lakes. For the first time, we cross the double passes of Shipton La (4170 m) and Barun La (also known as Tutu La 4080 m). A steep slope leads from the highly forested valley bottom of the Barun river valley to the jungle clearings of Dobato (3860 m) or Mumbuk (3520 m). Overnight in Tent.
After a long walk across the Barun River, a wonderful descent through a rhododendron, pine, and shrubby forest leads to the high pastures of Yangle Kharka (3690 m) on the other side via a wooden bridge. Overnight in Tent.
We leave the timberline behind and pitch our camp on Langmale’s high grassland, which is surrounded by beautiful peaks ranging in height from six to seven thousand meters. Overnight in Tent.
Today, you’ll walk through the desolate field of Sherson (4650 m) on your route to the ancient Makalu Basecamp, also known as Hillary Basecamp. This will give you enough time to take a quick afternoon stroll in the area, which includes spectacular views of Makalu’s West Ridge. You will spend many nights at the base camp. Overnight in Tent.
The advanced basecamp is reached after a tough ascent. Finally, you cross the ice and scree stream to the opposite side by following the glacier’s side moraine. The path up the Chago Glacier’s side valley is obstructed by steep slopes covered in massive rock slabs. A path through the scree can be difficult to see at times, so keep an eye out for rockfall and avoid getting lost! ABC is situated at 5300 meters, on a little hill immediately outside the Chago Glacier’s mouth. Overnight in Tent.
After a day of rest and a Puja, climb to Camp I (6100m), then to Camp II (6600m) before returning to Advance Base Camp.
Base camp’s day of rest
Next Rotation
Climb up to Camp I (6100m).
Scale Camp II (6600 meters)
Reach camp III (7400) and descend to camp II (overnight).
Head to Base Camp.
During the peak push, rest and prepare to push up to Camp I (6100 meters).
Begin your ascent to Camp II at 5 a.m.
Camp III (overnight) begins at 9:00 a.m.
Starting at 4 a.m., arriving at Camp IV at 1 p.m., taking a 6-hour break, and then starting the summit ascent at 8
Ascend to Camp IV after spending the night ascending and reaching the peak at 6-7 a.m.Overnight in Tent.
Descending to Camp II
Descend to base camp.
Following the summit, the base camp is packed and cleaned out.
Please keep in mind that the activities described throughout the climbing period are simply a preliminary itinerary. While you are at base camp, your climbing guide plans the actual summit. Because of the unpredictable weather in the Himalayas and your level of fitness, the activities may vary. We recommend that you plan a flexible flight and allow yourself extra time in case you need it for the summit push.
Overnight in Tent.
3-4 hrs. trek. Overnight in Tent.
3-4 hrs. trek. Overnight in Tent.
3-4 hrs. trek. Overnight in Tent.
3-4 hrs. trek. Overnight in Teahouse.
4-5 hrs. drive. 40 min. flight to Kathmandu. Overnight in Hotel.
Leisure day in Kathmandu, followed by a farewell meal and celebration. You can ask your guide to take you on a sightseeing tour of Kathmandu Valley. On this day, you can visit the valley’s numerous museums, including the Narayanhiti Museum, which was previously the residence of Nepal’s last king. You can also visit the hilltop of Nagarkot. After exploring the valley’s world heritage sites, you will enjoy a farewell supper with your Nepali friends and guide. You and your guide may even decide to extend your stay to include a Chitwan jungle safari, rafting activities, and other activities.
Our representative of Gravity Expedition will accompany you to Tribhuvan International Airport as you prepare to board your flight back home. While you travel home, you can start thinking about your next adventure here in Nepal, and rest assured that Gravity Expedition will be there to provide excellent service for your future endeavors.
Map
Cost Includes
- Airport/Hotel transfer in Kathmandu,
- All ground transportation as per the itinerary by private vehicle in Kathmandu,
- Hotel in Kathmandu for 3 nights pre and 2 nights post on B/B plan on sharing post,
- Full-day Kathmandu Heritage site sightseeing by private tourist vehicle,
- Professional English-speaking tour guide during sightseeing,
- City tour entrance fees of the heritage sites,
- Experienced and government-licensed high-altitude trekking and climbing guide during the trekking and climbing period,
- All trekking and mountaineering equipment like; Kitchen tents, store tents, dining tents, toilet tents, tables chairs, and cooking utensils for advanced Base Camp and high camp,
- Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bars, etc.)
- Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base camp,
- Food and accommodation during the trek in full board,
- Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner will be served at base camp,
- All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during the expedition for both members and crews,
- Daily weather Report service from Seattle based,
- Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Makalu,
- Nepal government Royalty and fees,
- One experienced, trained, government-licensed, climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client,
- All wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurance for all involved staff in trekking and expedition,
- Group emergency equipment and medical supplies,
- Medical consultation services at the base camp,
- Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas, cooks, Kitchen boys,
- Equipment allowance and wages for Government Liaison Officers,
- Solar equipment for light and also for charging various electric devices,
- 1 generator at base camp for computers and other electronic devices,
- Headset radios for communication in the mountain,
- Satellite Phones (for personal use on the participants’ charge),
- Internet at base camp (for personal use on the participants’ charge),
- Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required,
- Rope fixing costs,
- The heater will be provided at the base camp for heating the dining room,
- Emergency Oxygen, mask, and regulator will be provided,
- Travel and rescue arrangements,
- Ice fall usage Charge,
- 5 bottles of 3LTR Poisk Oxygen for members,
- Welcome and Farewell dinner with beverages.
Cost Excludes
- Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, or early return from the mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary,
- If required to change from airplane to helicopter to/from Tumlingtar due to weather issues, the additional cost of the helicopter will be shared amongst clients,
- Personal trekking and climbing gear Meals in Kathmandu (except breakfast and farewell dinner)
- Alcohol and Beverages during the trek and climbing season
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, shower, etc.)
- Emergency Medical Evacuation & any medical costs.
- Any other item not listed in the 'Price Includes' section
FAQs
The most common route is the South Face from the Nepalese side, which involves navigating steep rock and ice sections. The route includes setting up multiple high-altitude camps and dealing with challenging terrain.
Climbers should undergo rigorous cardiovascular training, strength training, and technical climbing practice. High-altitude training and experience in climbing steep, icy terrain are crucial for success.
Accommodation typically consists of expedition tents at Base Camp and higher camps. These tents are equipped with basic amenities, but climbers should be prepared for rugged conditions and limited comfort.
The optimal times are pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn). Climbers typically aim for the period from late April to early June or from late September to November.
Climbers need excellent physical fitness, stamina, and mental fortitude. The ability to manage physical exhaustion, stress, and the psychological pressure of high-altitude climbing is crucial.
Yes, climbers can visit local villages and interact with the communities in the Makalu region. This provides a cultural experience and insight into the traditions and lifestyles of the local people.
Equipments
Embarking on an Mt. Makalu expedition requires high-quality equipment to ensure safety and success. The harsh and unforgiving environment at such altitudes demands equipment that is both durable and reliable. Here are some essential pieces of equipment required for an 8000m expedition:
1.0 Travel Documents
- Valid passport
- Credit/Debit card
- Passport size photo (6 pieces)
- Insurance paper and contact address
- Family contact number
2.0 Upper Body Wear
- Expedition down jacket
- Basecamp down jacket
- Lightweight fleece top
- Wind shirt
- Gore-Tex jacket
- Waterproof shell jacket
- Base layers tops
- Trekking cloths
- Casual wear
3.0 Lower Body Wear
- Thermal bottom base layer (2-3 pcs)
- Fleece trousers (2-3 pcs)
- Gore-Tex pants (1 pcs)
- Mid-weight pants (1-2 pcs)
- Lightweight quick dry trekking pants (2-3 pcs)
- Gaiters for trekking boots
- Down pant Underwear (4-6 pcs)
4.0 Headwear
- Sun cap
- Desert cap
- Balaclava
- Banadana or Buff
- Fleece hat
- Neoprene face mask
- Neck gaiter
- Sunglass
- Ski goggles
5.0 Handwear
- Thin fleece gloves (2 pairs)
- Liner gloves (2 pairs)
- Wind stopper/screen tap gloves (2 pairs)
- Mountaineering gloves with removable liners
- Summit gloves-8000m
6.0 Footwear
- Socks (6 pairs)
- Lightweight shoes/sandals
- Trekking boots 8000m
- mountaineering boots 6000m
- mountaineering boots
- Save gaiters
- Down bivvy boots
- Camp boots
- Foot-wearing system
7.0 Sleeping Bags
- Sleeping bag -20°c to -30°c for Base camp
- Down Sleeping Bag -40°c for extreme comfort
- Thermarests Mattress (Cell foam)
- Down Matteres (Inflatable)
- Sleeping bag Liner
- Inflatable Pillow
8.0 Climbing Equipment
- Power Bank
- Pee Bottle
- Altimeter watch
- Pocket Knife
- Walking Stick/Trekking Pole
- Satellite Phone with credit
- Battery
- Headlight 500-700Lumens
- Spare Snow Goggles
- Tape Slings/240cm
- Unlock Carabiner (2pcs)
- Lock Carabiner (3pcs)
- Climbing Helmet
- Summit Down Suit – 8000m
- Jumar / Ascender
- Belay Devices / Figure of 8/ATC guide
- Harness
- Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector
- Crampons (fit with boot)/ Packing cover
9.0 Bag packs
- Rucksacks 35 L -50 L
- Duffle Bag 120 L – 150 L (2pcs)
- Laundry / Garbage Bag (Large)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks / Dry Bag –small/medium / Large (3-4)pcs)
10.0 Sun stuff
- Banana Boat/Nivea
- Sun Cream (up to -50SPF)
- Lip Guard – 30 to -50 (SPF)
- Sun Glasses (Uv Protection)
- Glaciers Glasses (Uv Protection
- ) Moisturizer / Lotion
11.0 Toiletries (Personal)
- Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue
- Toothpaste
- Toothbrush
- Soap
- Shampoo
- Towel
- Garbage Bag
12.0 Eating & Drinkings
- 1 ltr. Water Bottle
- 1/1.5ltr. Thermos Mug (Opt.)
- Spoon / Fork (opt.)
- Bowl (opt.)
13.0 Medical / First Aid
- Brufen / Ibuprofens
- Antibiotic
- Diamox
- Paracetamol
- Handy Plaster
- Crack Bandage
- Tincture Iodine
- Ondem
- Cetirizine
- Electrolyte
- Minil 10mg (Palpitation, anxiety)
- Codopar (Headache & chest pain)
- Salbetol 4mg (Breathless)
- Azithromycin 500mg (chronic tonsillitis, fever, nose, throat infection-must take 5 days)
- Flupen 250mg (prevent wound infection)
- Allegra 120/180mg (Allergic tonsil)
- Menstrual Products
14.0 Miscellaneous
- Nail cutter
- Umbrella /Raincoat
- Hot water bag
- Tenacious Tape Repair Kits
- Camera
- GPS Tracker (Recommended)
- Hand & Toe Warmer
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